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craig betz
Moderator
    
 USA
357 Posts |
Posted - 01/07/2006 : 01:00:28
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I put this article together for another forum where I post and figured there may be someone who could use it here too.Most of you old dogs will probably get a chuckle out of this but if you can add thoughts and critique,it would be appreciated.
Thanks for the time and the great article on dipsys Workdog.You asked for a board article and I will try to do my best as to tell what we do,which is probably all wrong,but it does work for us.If anybody has thoughts for input please tag-on and post,it can only benefit all of us.You will see in our tackle we have not stepped to the plate for high dollar stuff and I was skeptical buying what we did,but they have performed well for what we have.Also I will list some of the compromised things we did and do as we evolved in learning and tackle.
The clearing waters of Lake Erie have brought about a need to approach the fish on a stealthy aspect.Hence the planer board and its ability to put the lures away from the boat.With the clear waters shallow suspended walleye will be "invisible" to your electronics as they scatter away from the path of your vessel and lures properly placed will pick up on these fish.
Planer boards come in a number of designs.Large ski type boards,single in-line,wood,plastic,foam,lighted,adjustable ballast,with rattles and tell tale flags and a number of release clips are utilized in construction .If you were to ask a dozen fisherpeople what board they use you might get as many different answers.Planer boards are designed to increase the width of a trolling spread by taking the lines off to the sides of the boat. This allows you to fish multiple baits with less likelihood of tangling, and increases the chances of bites from boat-wary fish. You can also drag baits into shallow areas without putting the boat at risk.The shallower water of the West Basin are better suited for the in-lines and the larger ski-type boards are more appropriate for the deeper diving stuff needed for the Central Basin.
THE TACKLE
I guess the first thing is reel selection which at best are linecounting level winds,these are actually fairly inexpensive in comparison to some good casters,we have used Diawa's SG27lc with good success over four years of weekly use and one failure,a stripped spool to engaging plate due to a solid hookup while engaging from freewheel.You can always use level winds and count out the wraps and I have even used spinning tackle by devising a measure such as the amount stripped to the first guide and count them off.
Rods designed for in-lines or boards are out there and you will see a hundred different people use 80 different rod types the best advice I think I can give is to keep them matched as well as the reel.We have used Diawa Heartland Downrigger rods with good success and they have enough spring for rough water and enough backbone to handle larger fish,get too stiff a rod and it will pull the in-lines out of the water.
Next would be line and you know as well as I do that twenty people will suggest ten different lines as in each category of equipment necessary as well,we use Berkley Ironsilk at 20lb.Many use the superbraids some just use conventional line,stretch is the main concern and for us with the Ironsilk it seems to be acceptable as well as abrasion resistance and memory.Fill the spool to the manufactures recommendation and go out and strip off a measured hundred or two and see what the difference is.You might be surprised at the variances and you can mark reels with the correction factor. BTW we remove about 6 feet off the end of our line every 20 or so hours along with a feel for abrasion on each outing or bottom contact and cut any affected.You need to keep the amount of line on the spools as close together to each other as possible,to keep the counts as accurate as they can be.
For leaders we use a ball bearing swivel to attach to the line and 6 foot leaders of 17-20lb floroclear with a number 2 duolock at the terminal end.Once again leader materials will vary from the more expensive florocarbon,real McCoy,on down to some out of the box leftover line from spooling,in a pinch. Rod holders will be necessary and there are many available.We,in the past,ran heavy constructed plastic,they do break if struck with something,never had one break from strain with dipsys and almost lost is all we have experienced but all I saw of my brother,who broke that one,was the soles of his shoes before he came back up with the rod.Lanyards to the reels are good insurance but cumbersome when pulling fish.We will be making the metal conversion soon on our new vessel.
THE BOARDS IN-LINE
After a pro event win on Lake Erie,using an at the time unorthodox method of pulling in-line boards they have become a common sight with the open water crowd.They have more of a surging effect on the lure when encountering wave action and will work relatively well until the waves start to curl or break.You can navigate relatively tight turns with the in-lines and properly ballasted units will stay upright and in track if stop and go boat action brings the strike.They are easier to store in a smaller vessel and don't require extra equipment to use.We will pull 30 jets with our in-lines but they squat down at the tail pretty hard a board with adjustable ballast or adding ballast forward will help when dragging high drag tackle such as dipsys,discs,deep cranks and the like.
Some in-line boards.
[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL]
When setting up the in-line boards let your lure run out to the distance to get to the desired dive depth,this is where the two bibles of trolling come into play.Precision Trolling and the Big Water Edition are the titles and are a strongly recommended resource in my opinion.They show dive curves for all the popular lures,weighting systems,lead core and diving devices with compensating charts for conditions and tackle that vary from their findings.The numbers seem to be very close and sometimes interesting.
[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL]
Stop the reel and attach the board,we use Off-shores with the OR16 clips which are red in color,they have a post in the center of the pad to keep the line from slipping completely off the release and a little more tension,the black clips that the boards are shipped with don't have the pin.I think it is easiest to attach the rear release first then the front,leaving around three inches of slack between the two.With the super lines you should loop the line around the release to create a 360 degree loop around the pad and draw snug to eliminate slippage.At first this is an awkward experience but with time it will become mechanical.Then play out the line to offset the board from the boat and set rod in the rod holder.
When retrieving a fish the biggest thing to learn is to get the right amount of line from the rod tip to the board so that you can lift the tip to maintain pressure on the fish but have the board swing into your free hand to squeeze the release.I found that when squeezing the last release drawing the line towards you will keep the board away from the gunnel and an accident.I have also watched many people just let the line snap after removing the board,we extend with the line as far as possible to eliminate that snap and momentary loss of pressure.
IN-LINE ACCESSORIES
There are some things you can do with your in-lines that can help certain situations.Night fishing is an addiction of ours and seeing the board was a need for us,I drill a hole of the appropriate diameter to accept a thill LED bobber light,some use light sticks and there are some manufacture offered lights as well.We use the tell-tale flag conversions but they are finicky and sometimes harder to read than you would think.When pulling deep running cranks and 30 jets with our Off-shores we added another hole to stretch the spring and still had to add more tension by shortening the spring to try and keep the flag usable even then it is common to see them at 45 degrees.
[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL] [URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL]
LARGE SKI TYPE BOARDS
[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL]
The larger ski type boards require a larger vessel to provide an attachment point high enough to keep the tow line from digging in so a mast,rail or cabin mounted reels are usually utilized.They also will require release clips to run down the "towline" for line attachment.We did drag big boards off our little boat with attaching tow lines to the bimini frame and have been able to get a pretty wide spread before the tow line would dig in but it was a compromised situation.The big boards allow more lines per side,are better suited to larger jets,will work with small dipsys and will track in rougher water better than an in-line but your turning radius is increased and the surging effect that the small in-lines impart on the bait is lost to some extent.If a big board dives it can be a little trickier to get it back on "plane". Mastercraft makes a wooden board that breaks down for stowage and is probably the most convenient on a smaller watercraft,good construction and materials throughout.
TOWLINE ATTACHMENT
The trick when mounting a deck plate for a planer board mast is to get it as far forward as possible The standard height for dual board masts is 4 to 6 feet and it is height that determines how far out to the side the boards can run without the towline drooping into the water. The higher and farther forward the mast, the better.A tall vessel can use rail mounted spools for the towlines and we have even used a line with snap swivels at each end for attachment with no spool for adjustment.Manual spools are cheaper but electric masts can make things a little easier.
[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL],[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL]
THE SPREAD
By spreading the lures away from the boat not only targets fleeing fish,it also frees up the transom area for netting.If you run the shallowest running lures outside and a little set back from the inboard line adjacent to it,when a fish hooks up it will usually rise up in the water column,go over the inboard lines it crosses and allow playing fish back up the middle without tangle.The rods closer to the boat have less set-back and deeper running lures,try to keep the offsets even,as a fish will suck down the offering and the board will begin to "pull back" out of formation making it easier to "read" a hook-up.The rods closest to the bow should have the tips set the highest and once again uniform spacing of angle will make reading easier if your rod holders will allow enough positions.
The boards drag behind the boat at angles of 30 to 60 degrees, as determined by speed and water conditions.Depending on the angle of the boards off the stern, a sharp turn can bring the towline (or fishing lines) of the outside board across the cockpit with the big boards. You can put more of a three dimensional effect in your spread with fluctuating speed and turns,if necessary,causing the outside baits to rise and the inside to dig and at the same time to increase speed on the outside and slow on the inside.
When you pull a board or a lure out of the spread on a big board you can always shift the baits and boards out but it can get the deep running stuff shifted to the outside,currents,presence of a jet to lift the fish and the like can allow you to cheat but tangles and crossed lines are always our worst nightmare.
BOAT CONTROL
If you’ve got a guy at the helm who doesn't know how to handle the boat, you’re better off bobber fishing,period. Have heard about rods plucked from their holders and dropped into the drink by an errant towline.It’s an expensive lesson in boat handling.”
In addition to sharp turns, the other major “no-no” is stopping the boat. Even when you’re fighting a fish, if you’ve got other boards out, keep nudging the boat in and out of gear if you must slow for some reason.Once you stop, your boards stall, lose their orientation to the boat and other lines, resulting in tangles.” For the same reason, trolling downwind is the preferred direction. Even if you are forced to stop, the wind will help maintain the boat’s forward progress and keep the boards properly deployed but the fish ask for the lures from another angle at times and you may need to sacrifice ease for the bite.
While trolling with planer boards, turns must be taken slow and wide. The skipper should pay particular attention to the inside board and trolling lines. These will go slack during the turn, and care must be taken to avoid running over the lines and fouling the prop.Turns will cause the outside baits to run higher and faster than the inside so you can add another variable in the pattern and a knowing skipper will watch for any pattern associated to turns and speed that provoke a bite.
This is also where your electronics will be worth their weight in gold if you are marking fish caught and using your plotter or MOB feature to get you back to a hook-up area.With the smaller schools that are spread out don't go too far from the last fish unless the bite continues.There are many days our plotter will have a "daisy" petal looking effect from our backtracking over a productive spot.
A programmable autopilot is a very nice feature and can free up the duty of vessel handling while playing and landing fish with a limited crew as well as providing a "generated" pattern of control.The biggest drawback is that we see people get consumed in what is happening and forget about where they may be heading so one eye needs to keep track of whats ahead.
It sounds a little complicated but once you get the proper setup and run a planer board program for a while, it’s really very simple. And effective. Think of it this way: By running boards 50 feet off both sides, you’ve given a walleye boat with an 8-foot beam a 100-foot-wide transom to troll from.”
Plans to make your own ski style board.
[URL=http://imageshack.us] [/URL]
Plans to make your own in-line boards:http://www.lithosjigs.com/planerplans.html
Don't worry dear once we get past this rough water it will flatten out.
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baitdave
Forum Admin
    

USA
1522 Posts |
Posted - 01/23/2006 : 22:42:04
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Good stuff, please keep it up! This fishin season had better be fantastic or I'm taking up knitting!
Pass The Fun Of Fishing On! |
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BulBob
Fisherman

USA
11 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2006 : 14:53:21
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Please check out my invention called the Bulletbobber. It is the first ever bobber with directionl control. It is a "CASTABLE mini PLANER BOARD" that "FLIPS DIRECTION" and color when given a little tug.
Watch the video at www.bulletbobber.com. and you will see what I mean.
BulBob |
Edited by - BulBob on 03/23/2006 14:55:19 |
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DOUBLE EAGLE
Professional Fisherman
    

USA
1030 Posts |
Posted - 03/23/2006 : 19:24:40
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| CRAIG, GREAT JOB AND WELL SAID!!!!!!!!! DOUBLE EAGLE!!!!!!!! |
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Ray Bob
Fisherman

15 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2006 : 12:09:47
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Here's another dandy one on PB's from Reels site... http://www.midwestangling.com/news.php?extend.25 quote:
Lake Erie Small Planer Board Basics by Mark Hicks
Before the Zebra Mussel invasion, boats could often troll right over walleyes in the murky western basin and not spook them. Now that countless mussels filter the water and drastically increase its clarity, walleyes are proving less tolerant and more elusive.
Clear water has long challenged anglers in Lake Erie’s central and eastern basins, and the problem grows more acute as the zebra’s bring about increasingly transparent conditions. Fishing deeper isn’t always the solution, because walleyes commonly suspend less than 35 feet deep, even when the bottom plunges to 80 feet or more.
Walleyes that suspend near the surface in clear water tend to scoot away from a boat passing overhead and escape the lures trailing behind it. Your depth finder may mark few fish, yet there could be scads of them swimming out of your path. One of the most effective methods for getting a lure out to boat-shy walleyes consists of trolling with small planer boards that connect directly to your lines.
In-line boards typically measureless than 10 inches in length. Their small profile doesn’t intimidate walleyes, and their beveled noses propel them and the lines and lures they carry away from the boat.
SMALL BOARD BASICS
Setting out a small planer board presents a simple chore. With the boat moving ahead at trolling speed, let a lure out behind the boat as far as you deem necessary.
Next, engage the reel, grasp the line above the rod tip and place the rod in a holder. Connect the board to the line using whatever attachments come with the unit, usually two pinch-type line releases, or a line release followed by a wire guide. Be aware that some boards come designated for the right or left side of the boat, and they are not interchangeable.
After attaching the board, pull the rod from the holder, drop the board into the water and feed line as it swims out a distance of roughly 50 to 100 feet. The board’s bright color, typically yellow or orange, makes it easier to spot.
Then, engage the reel and place the rod back into its holder. The rod should rest in an upright position. This helps hold the line to the board out of the water and improves strike detection. Keep an eye on the board and the rod tip to determine when a walleye has taken the bait. The key indicator is when the board slides backward.
REFINED SMALL BOARD TACTICS
As with any fishing technique, skill and knowledge determine the level of success with small boards. Trolling them randomly produces inconsistent catches. Refined presentations, such as those used by noted professional walleye
angler Gary Parsons of Chilton, Wisconsin, are deadly.
Walleye anglers nationwide concede that Parsons is the master when it comes to small boards. He has elevated the technique to almost an art form, and deserves much of the credit-along with his close friend Keith Kavajecz , for introducing this tactic to Lake Erie.
"What Keith and I did on Lake Erie," says Parsons, "was help popularize slow-down trolling techniques for post-spawn, deep-water females. Lake Erie had never been exposed to that approach before."
Over the past several years, Parsons and Kavajecz have fished many walleye tournaments on Lake Erie. They have aptly demonstrated that slow trolling with small boards produces excellent catches in the western and central basins, spring through fall. Their methods should work equally well in the eastern basin.
THE PLANER BOARD
In-line planer boards have been around for quite some time, but many of them don’t work well with the slow-trolling methods intended for walleyes. Parsons has designed popular boards for several manufacturers and knows which features bring about a superior performance.
"I’ve been part of the evolution of walleye boards," claims Parsons. "When I mention small boards, most people automatically think of the ones designed for salmon trolling at high speeds. They don’t work worth a darn for walleyes.
"We troll so slowly that our boards need to be ballasted so they stay upright. Salmon boards, which are not ballasted, tend to fall over at low speeds."
These days, Parsons tows the ballasted (bottom weighted) Off Shore Side-Planer. In addition to its balance, the Off Shore model features two snap
release connectors. They quickly attach and detach from the line and also help the board track true.
When fishing with a partner, Parsons frequently pulls four boards. He says he can take the motor out of gear to land a big walleye, and the remaining three boards hold their positions and stay upright.
"There’s no flipping over and no tangling of lines. They just track right out there as you drift," he says.
LURE SPEED
In April, Parsons scores well on heavy, post spawn walleyes in the western basin trolling at a .8 to 1.2 m.p.h. A 9.9 to 15 h.p. auxiliary outboard on the transom of his Tracker walleye boat lets him maneuver at crawl speeds.
Considering that walleyes tend to be lethargic in the cold water of early spring, the slow pace seems appropriate. As the water warms above 50 degrees, most Lake Erie anglers increase their trolling speeds. Not Parsons. He stubbornly sticks to his inchmeal pace, even when the water climbs to 70 degrees.
The only time Parsons trolls faster is when Erie’s walleyes get on a strong spoon bite during the heat of the summer and on into the fall. Spoons require a faster speed to achieve an effective action.
"Day in and day out," says Parsons, "the most effective troll is a slow troll. I firmly believe that the majority of the time-other than in the heat of the summer-the fish are triggered much more by a change of speed than they are buy speed alone."
LURE ACTION
Envision a crankbait swimming steadily through Lake Erie’s crystalline water. Even at a depth of 30 feet, enough sunlight filters down to reflect off the lure’s bright sides. At some point, the flashing rhythm grabs a walleye’s attention. The heavy fish abruptly whirls about, closes on the lure and then tailgates inches behind it for several seconds. Eventually, the walleye loses interest and turns away.
Now reconstruct the same scenario. But just before the walleye turns away, give the lure a sudden stop-go-action. The erratic movement triggers the walleye’s strike reflex and the fish nabs the bait. It is this sudden change in action that Parsons strives to impart when trolling.
"Small boards are the absolute best way to do that," stresses Parsons. "When the board races down a wave and stops, it passes that action directly to your lure. And that speed change is a lot more dramatic when you troll at a slow speed. The tow line on a big ski board absorbs some of the shock, so the action is not near as dramatic as with a small board."
To determine just how much action the fish prefer, Parsons may start out running flat lines along with his board lines. The boards, dancing up and down the waves, generate the most energetic lure response. One or two other rods in holders pull flat lines and provide more subtle actions. The remaining flat line rod lays across the bottom of the boat with about a foot of its tip sticking out. It sustains the most subdued lure motion.
"That gives you three different stop-and-go presentations at the same time," says Parsons. "There are times when the rod on the floor catches all the fish, times when the flat lines in the holders are better, and times when the boards-especially on calm days- just cream everything."
TROLL WITH THE WIND
One rule that Parsons sets in stone is: "Always troll with the wind." This maneuver simplifies boat control and spurs small boards up and down waves with the liveliest action. A flat, calm day makes for poor trolling, because there are no waves to bring the lures to life.
On blustery days, Parsons may pop his kicker outboard in and out of gear to slow the boat. Under extreme conditions, the wind propels the boat and the motor is used only for steering.
The moment Parsons hooks a good walleye; he marks the spot by entering a waypoint in his GPS. After landing the fish, he may continue trolling in the same direction another 500 yards. If no other strikes ensue, he quickly pulls in all the rods, circles around and upwind of the waypoint, and makes another pass through the same area. He continues making passes until he stops catching fish.
"If there’s one big walleye there," he says, "you can usually milk three or four more big ones out of that same area. Some schools are tight. You just can’t continue trolling for 2 or 3 miles after you catch a fish before turning around."
TACKLE
Parsons and Kavajecz designed a 7-foot graphite trolling rod-part of the Team Daiwa series-that works well with small boards. The medium-heavy rod withstands the resistance caused by a board, plus its trailing weight and lure, without bowing too deeply.
"I don’t know that graphite is extremely important," says Parsons, "but the rod’s got to be stiff enough that it doesn’t bend over to the point where you can’t read it.
"My rods retain a moderate bow, so I don’t always have to scan the water and pick out the board. A lot of times, I can glance at my rod tips and know I have a fish on, especially with the big walleyes in Lake Erie. They just double a rod over."
Parsons relies on Daiwa S627LC line counter trolling reels to put lines out at specific distances and perfectly duplicate productive settings. He fills the spools with 10-pound Trireme XT.
KEY SETUPS
FOR SMALL BOARDS
During a two-week period in late March and early April, Capt. Al Lesh of Warren, Michigan, has a field day trolling small boards in the western basin. Lesh concentrates on shorelines east and west of the Maumee River and loads up on big, post-spawn females in shallow water.
"I troll only about 50 yards offshore," says Lesh. "I run small planer boards right up near the bank in 5 feet of water. I’ve seen walleyes up to 14 pounds come out of that skinny water."
Subtle-action minnow lures swim about I 00 feet behind Lesh’s boards on 10-pound test monofilament. The shallow running Bomber 15A and No. 13 Rapala.
Lesh’s favorite lures in this situation, wobble freely above the bottom.
The big walleyes soon vacate the shallows and join hordes of other post-spawn females in deeper, western basin waters. Trolling for these fish with small boards throughout April and into early May presents a prime opportunity for catching limits of heavy fish. At this time, Parsons scours the western basin with his LCG, searching for walleyes out to depths of 40 feet.
"The depth varies so much from year to year," says Parsons, "that you have to let your graph dictate what you should be trying. You find a location that’s holding fish and note how deep they are. Sometimes they suspend only 10 feet down.
"You put together potential setups that target the approximate depth zones where you’re marking fish. You don’t know if any of those fish are walleyes until you catch the first one. If you get a second bite and a third bite, you can start putting together patterns. Tournament fishermen call them programs."
SPRING PROGRAMS
Shallow running minnow lures, such as Storm’s ThunderStick, and Jr. ThunderStick, Smithwick’s Rattlin’ Rogue, and No. II and No. 13 floating Rapalas, comprise the basis for Parsons’s early spring programs on Lake Erie. He first establishes the most productive trolling depth. After that, he refines lure speed, lure action and lure color.
The old trick of making "S" curves helps determine whether the fish want a faster or slower trolling speed. When a boat turns, the outside boards speed up, while the inside boards slow down. If strikes come consistently from the faster or slower side, Parsons adjusts his speed accordingly.
When Parsons first came to Lake Erie nearly a decade ago, lead core line furnished his primary means for getting minnow lures deep. Today he favors the simplicity and flexibility of Snap Weights. The essentials of lead core trolling and the Snap Weight System are covered in Chapter 8 of "Lake Erie Walleye", on basic trolling.
"If it’s calm," says Parsons, "I put out nothing but boards. If it’s rough, the boat doesn’t bother the walleyes as much, so I put out flat lines and boards. In the latter case, the boards mainly spread the lines to cover more water."
Once he settles the boat down to an appropriate tolling speed, Parsons lets out minnow baits with Snap Weights that pull the lures down to the level he wishes to cover. He uses weights from 1/2 ounce to 8 ounces. A small board, however, can only carry a weight up to 3 ounces, which is enough to pull a minnow lure down into the 40- to 50-foot range on a long lead.
After letting the lure back 50 to 100 feet behind the boat-sometimes only 30 feet in murky water- Parsons snaps a weight to the line. He then lets out an additional 20 to I 10 feet, depending on the depth he is trying to achieve. At this point, a rod intended for flat line trolling is placed in a holder. Otherwise, a small board is first attached to the line and allowed to swim out away from the boat. When a walleye nails a lure on a board line, both the board and the snap weight must be removed as the fish is reeled in.
Though Parsons counts on slender minnow lures in the spring, many other anglers also catch walleyes pulling spinner rigs with small boards. As the water warms and walleyes become more active, Parsons makes extensive use of spinner rigs and wobbling crankbaits, such as Rapala’s Shad Rap, Storm’s diving Jr. ThunderStick and Hot’N’ Tot, and deep diving Bomber Long As.
These lures have performed well for him in both the western and central basins. When starting the day, Parsons commonly trolls a wide variety of lures and lets the walleyes tell him which they prefer.
"I’ve fished the central basin," he says, "in water out to 80 feet deep. Surprisingly, you get a thermocline that sets up out there anywhere from 35 to 50- some feet deep. The majority of the biting fish are going to be at thermocline level or above, and that’s well within the range of small boards."
LANDING WALLEYES
When you notice that a walleye has been hooked, fetch the rod and steadily crank in the board. The boat should continue running at trolling speed. Avoid setting the book. Doing so may give the walleye enough slack line to escape.
Stop reeling when the board reaches the boat and remove it from the line while maintaining rod pressure on the walleye. Two anglers working in harmony easily perform this task. From this point on, land the walleye as you normally would.
TANDEM BOARDS
When running two boards off the same side of the boat, space them far enough apart to avoid tangles. A good combination is 50 feet out for the inside board and I 00 feet out for the outside board. If the boards tow lures that run at different depths, match the shallower running lure to the outside board.
After hooking a walleye on an outside board, the inside board must be adjusted to prevent the lines from tangling while reeling in the fish. This requires team work.
One angler holds the outside rod that has the walleye, while another angler quickly feeds line to the inside board. When the inside board drops back well behind the outside board, bring the walleye inside and under the line connected to the outside board.
Another option consists of winding up the inside board and placing it on the opposite side of the boat until the walleye is landed on the outside board.
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Bebob da I-Bobray |
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bigmtman
Professional Fisherman
    

USA
1197 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2006 : 13:07:41
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| Raybob very good info,thanks |
Thanks Mark Butler - ( Let Christ be your light house ) |
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baitdave
Forum Admin
    

USA
1522 Posts |
Posted - 10/29/2006 : 08:58:05
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Great stuff on here, this will help many fishermen.
At the new shop, we are going to have several seminars this winter. FREE! Trolling, Steelhead fishing ,Fly Tying, Rod Wrapping |
Pass The Fun Of Fishing On! |
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rlrettig
Fisherman

10 Posts |
Posted - 02/22/2007 : 08:50:21
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GREAT INFO ON BOARDS, RODS, SPEEDS, ETC AM STUDYING FOR SPRING TRIP
RLRETTIG PROSPERIITY S.C. BUBBA'S RETURN TO ERIE |
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wake-n-walleye
Master Fisherman
   

208 Posts |
Posted - 03/15/2007 : 17:12:12
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great info : thanks craig for the tips i have one questions .... i,m getting ready to buy some equipment and Dave has been great in assiting me in this task . again thanks Dave . but has any body have the LureLeader for trolling both for planer boards and as dipsy .. i thinking buying a few to try but was seeing if there is any expierence with these . they can be found at WWW.LureLeader.com
i will post my result with this product if there is no feed back .
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steeleypeeler
Super Fisherman


USA
29 Posts |
Posted - 04/27/2008 : 10:14:34
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Thanks for the very informative articles. I really enjoy this forum for just that reason and to brag up my steelies. I am hard at work getting my boat ready for the eyes and decided to expand my arsenal to include inline planers so this info is just what the doctor ordered! I had great success last year with my planer mast and big boards but with my father getting up in age they are alot of work to set while trying to stay on course.I am looking forward to testing your info. By the way this is the big one of the season for me this year. Keep your lines tight and drags screamin!!
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bigmtman
Professional Fisherman
    

USA
1197 Posts |
Posted - 04/27/2008 : 11:17:12
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| WHAT A DANDY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
Thanks Mark Butler - ( Let Christ be your light house ) |
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DOUBLE EAGLE
Professional Fisherman
    

USA
1030 Posts |
Posted - 04/29/2008 : 04:56:55
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| Nice one!!!!!!!!!! |
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